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Writer's pictureJane Smith

North Downs Way Day 3 - Dorking to Merstham

I had an entertaining half hour last night. Often the energy and adrenaline expended from walking means I’m not sleepy at what should really be bedtime. But at 11pm, knowing I’d have an early start, I thought I’d better turn off the light. If only it were that easy. There were two switches by the bed, one controlling the ceiling light, the other in charge of the reading lights in the head board. One was obedient. I could turn the overhead light off and on as often as I liked. The other was more rebellious. I tried double clicking it, dimming it, and in one over ambitious moment stretching to the switch by the door with one hand whilst reaching to the other switch with the other. Every time they would go off, and then immediately rekindle. After a lot of fierce clicking they obeyed me, and I got into bed. Only for them to turn on again as my head hit the pillow. So in the end I had to get dressed, go down tousled to the bar to get the manager up to assist. Although charming, he clearly thought I was a bit incompetent, and tried out a bit of mansplaining. People who’ve attempted that on me before have learnt I don’t respond well to it. And therefore I was rather delighted to observe his surprise when finding that he couldn’t make the lights work either. In the end he resorted to taking the whole switch apart.

But lights aside, it was a better night than the previous one, and when I woke quite early there were clear skies. I had a solitary breakfast, the other pub guests having better things to do than have a prompt Sunday start, and then had a little look into the centre of Dorking. I think I was a bit unkind to it yesterday, I’d arrived through the nail bars and tattoo parlours end of town, with the rain pelting me. Walking into the centre in the hazy sunshine it seemed a rather more charming place.

Quiet though, before 8am. The other people around were a bleary young father walking the dog whilst carrying a wakeful baby, and a posse of bootsalers setting up in the station car park.

I retraced my steps back past Denbie’s Vineyard, deciding I will come back one day to try some of their wine.

Box Hill is the first proper hill of the NDW, and the one which people have talked about with slightly hushed tones when I’ve said I’m doing this walk. Certainly the gradient map of the day makes it look not one to take too lightly.

But there was another obstacle before the ascent, in the form of stepping stones over the river Mole. There is a footbridge, in case, as Cicerone says, ‘the river is high, or you feel uneasy’. I guess both were true, but I went for it anyway. The first half of the stones was fine, for the second they were slightly further apart and rather more underwater. I didn’t think about what would happen if I’d got swept away. In reality it would probably have just meant wet feet, but that’s not as good a story.


The climb up Box Hill was mainly done through a series of steep steps, slightly too high and far apart for my legs. And which, as ever, don’t look that steep in a photo.

The hill is named after the box trees that used to cover the slope before they were cut down in the 18th century for use as engraving blocks, apparently. It was well used this morning by people being hearty in various forms. I met a pair of men coming down who looked sympathetic and told me I was nearly there. I knew they were lying. My heart rate was soaring, and sweat was trickling down my face, but the views at the top were worth it. I took photos for a young family, who I later found had followed this blog from the QR code I wear on the back of my rucksack. It was great to meet you, Isabel, and thank you for the invaluable advice about the cafe!

For yes, there was the happiest of sights, a National Trust cafe. There was good coffee and a less good overhearing of a disturbing conversation between two sad women about their dreadful sounding partners. I hope something will change for them both. My mood was lifted though by chatting to four cyclists, David, Ryan, Tim and Mark. They were towards the end of their morning’s trip out, enjoying substantial flapjacks before at least one of them had to go and support his children at a scout parade. They cycle together most weekends. They were great company and clearly very good friends. I described the South African sani2c route that Vikram told me about yesterday, and the South African in the group scoffed at it, and said it was for wimps. Sorry Vikram….


Moving back to the path from the cafe it was more obvious that we were only 6 miles from Gatwick, with the planes busily flying in and out. But at the top of the hill it still felt remote.


There was then a longish period through the woods, alternately a bit muddy and a bit slippy on the clay. But it was so much less muddy than the South Downs Way in April. That walk was ridiculously hard going underfoot, and the wind repeatedly threatened to blow me over. In retrospect, I was thinking that the conditions mirrored my mental state at the time. And so they do this time - the path is clear and firm, the weather is calm.

But then just after I’d had all those Big Thoughts,

there was a steep descent, leading me to be in danger of sliding in an undignified heap. I was very grateful for a well placed hand rail and my poles, as the clay was so treacherous. But maybe those stabilising influences actually continues my big thoughts metaphor. There have been some fantastic people this year who have been my human hand rails or trusty walking poles.


Eventually the path rejoined the Pilgrim’s Way, and past Betchworth Quarry, and the Brockham Lime Works. These were abandoned in the 1930s, and are now a site of scientific interest, the tower a reminder of its industrial past.

The little agricultural cottages coming into Betchworth shortly afterwards were probably connected to that too, I guessed.


Then there was another section in trees, (there’s a lot of trees on this walk) including some I had to limbo under. But the path was mainly flat, with glimpses of fields, which I enjoyed, as I knew what was coming next.



I sat and drew breath with a cup of tea and some nuts at the base of the hills ahead of me. I was feeling quite tired, but very grateful for the chance to be there on my own in the sunshine.


But the respite couldn’t last long, and I was off up the hills, going from Mount Hill to Coneyburn Hill, Juniper Hill to Colley Hill. Cicerone describes this day’s stretch as ‘a rollercoaster’. It has certainly gone up and down a lot. But in the way I’ve walked it today the similarity is more to a rickety old wagon that has inched up the hills with repeated stops for maintenance, a long break at the top, and then tentatively sliding downhill almost as slowly. It’s not been breathtakingly speedy, probably seven minutes a mile slower than usual.


At the top, the hills no longer mask the sound of the motorway, which was now very distinct. From the grand stone built pavilion on Colley Hill I could see Box Hill and maybe just over to the sea in the distance. I could see why so many people come up here, to enjoy these fantastic views.


Going on, there was a moving memorial to the air crew of a Flying Fortress that crashed into Reigate Hill in 1945, killing all 9 crew members. The oldest was 25. The memorial is in the form of two pieces of wood marking the length of the aircraft’s wingspan. There were a group of children happily and obliviously playing on one of the sides, their parents not much older than the young men who died.


I then kept a close eye on my watch. Because I love tech, I have various pieces of equipment that keep track of my vitals and exercise stats. And through that, I knew that I was very close to completing a challenge I’d set myself in January - to walk 1000 miles in 2024. At 9.4 miles today I’d done it. There have been some days this year when I’ve hardly walked anything, some when I’ve walked loads, but I’ve walked very nearly every day this year, and it has sometimes been a lifesaver. A passerby kindly took a photo at exactly 9.4 miles, rather pleasingly in front of another big view.

I’d done a little detour onto Reigate Fort, which was one of 13 built in the 1890s to protect London from foreign invasion when confidence in the Royal Navy was low. They only lasted about 15 years, at which point it was decided that although the forts were a deterrent to invasion, a far better strategy would be to stop the enemy from invading in the first place. And a decision was made to invest in the Navy. I’m no military expert, but that seemed like a plan.

I discovered the source of the majority of the people out on the path at Reigate Hill, with a car park heaving with people, and massively congested roads. It also had a coffee shop that I managed to resist as I’d got lunch planned. I was glad to walk away from the melee.

The last section was through Gatton Park. This has had a series of owners over the years, with the gardens designed by Capability Brown. The estate is now owned jointly by the National Trust and the Royal Alexandra and Albert School. Much of the gardens weren’t visible from the NDW, but there were glimpses of some open parkland which was a very different vibe to the rest of the walk.



The path led past some standing stones to commemorate the millennium, through the school grounds, a state boarding school for 7-18 year olds, and then opened out onto the first golf course of the day, finishing with a map that shows how far I’ve come so far.


And, just in time for lunch, I arrived in Merstham, with David turning up just after me. It was great for all concerned to change into clean clothes, and we had a huge pub meal and a quiet sit whilst I wrote this blog and enjoyed reading the messages from yesterday. Thanks to all who read it, and even more those who comment on it, it’s greatly appreciated. I write the blog for me mainly, but knowing others are interested, or even enjoy it, makes me happy.


And you’d think that then we’d have gone home. But two of my choral director friends were putting on a concert in Hampton tonight, and that wasn’t so far away from Merstham. So we drove over, had a bit of a snooze in the car and very much enjoyed Mary and Jessa’s performances, along with the amazing band and guest soloists.

Back home tonight, but I’m hoping that maybe next weekend might provide time to do a couple more days of the eight left of the North Downs Way.


Stats

Distance travelled - 12.1 miles

Total ascent - 1663 feet


Total number of miles walked this year - 1003


Video of the walk




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9 Comments


sophie.holroyd67
Oct 15

My response to your blogs is exactly like the elevation diagram: a rollercoaster of ups and downs, with laughs out loud (the lights!!) and emotional troughs (the sad women at the cafe holding on to each other, the poignant memorial), gasps (the steep down pic) and exhilarated whoops (the selfies!). Just such a lovely read. So glad you’re out there. Amazing about the QR code traction!

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normcd16
Oct 14

Brilliant to read these again Jane and wonderful to see you back out walking. I don't know how you fit it all in. I love your writing style too. Is a book on the cards?

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Jane Smith
Jane Smith
Oct 19
Replying to

Thanks, I really appreciate that! I think about a book periodically, and then life gets busy and there isn’t the time. Maybe one day…..

Edited
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Gilly Fenner
Gilly Fenner
Oct 13

Loving following your travels as always. You’ll be hitting Otford soon - when do you think.? - where J and I got married (with you and D having starring roles 🥰) so let me know when you are passing and we can maybe meet if there is alingnment with your itinerary. xx

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Jane Smith
Jane Smith
Oct 19
Replying to

It’s possible it might be I’m walking the next section in a couple of weeks? It would be lovely to meet up!

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David Tryon
David Tryon
Oct 13

I like the inclusion of the map of the day’s route and gradient graph! Can we have more of those please as saves me having to search on Outdoors GB? 😀

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Jane Smith
Jane Smith
Oct 14
Replying to

I'll try to remember to do that! Thanks for reading, Dave.

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Olivia Dickson
Olivia Dickson
Oct 13

Should have known you would have a QR code ! Just looking at those stepping stones made me feel queasy .. footbridge for me ! Glad you had a happy time .... inspirational as always ... Xx

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Jane Smith
Jane Smith
Oct 13
Replying to

I was going to write on your last comment about it, but you read this one first! Yes, I have a laminated card on my rucksack - it’s quite a good way of starting conversations as well as showing people the website. Thanks for reading, Kate, it means a lot to me. X

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